Madagascar itinerary for 3 weeks: the RN7 or the west, stage by stage

A Madagascar itinerary for 3 weeks fits along one main route, not the whole island. The simplest choice is the RN7, from Antananarivo to Toliara, with a detour to the Andasibe forest. The other option heads west: Morondava, the Avenue of the Baobabs and the Tsingy de Bemaraha, followed by a few beach days on Nosy Be.

Either way, the road sets the pace. Plan on 5 to 8 hours of driving per stage, always in daylight, ideally with a driver.

Before you plan the route: a few rules

Distances look short on the map. They are not short on the ground. Much of the network is unpaved, and the paved roads are often full of potholes.

The RN7 is the great road of the south. Wikipedia puts Antsirabe 170 km from the capital, Fianarantsoa 412 km, Ranohira (for Isalo) 697 km and Toliara 923 km. Those kilometers go by slowly. In January 2025, the Cotisse bus company took 26 hours to travel between Toliara and Antananarivo, according to L'Express de Madagascar. The newspaper pointed to damaged stretches near Sakaraha and between Fianarantsoa and Ambositra.

So the stages are short in kilometers and long in hours. The agency Road Trip Africa counts 4 to 8 hours of driving per road day on its tours.

Traveling on the national highways at night is strongly advised against.

This advice from the French foreign ministry shapes everything else. Each stage should leave early and arrive before dark. Also build in a spare day: a washed-out bridge or a breakdown can throw off the whole trip.

Which season to choose?

These itineraries work in the dry season, roughly April to November. The Tsingy are only open from mid-April to mid-November. The month-by-month details are in our article on the best time to visit Madagascar.

Itinerary 1: the RN7 and Andasibe, from Antananarivo to Toliara

This is the classic route for a first trip. It crosses the highlands, the rainforests and the Isalo massifs, and ends on the Mozambique Channel. The distances and driving times in the table come from the tours published by Road Trip Africa, not counting stops.

Days	Stage	Distance	Driving time
1	Arrival in Antananarivo (Ivato airport)	-	-
2	Ivato to Andasibe	165 km	5 h
3	Andasibe: forest and lemurs	-	-
4	Andasibe to Ivato	165 km	5 h
5	Ivato to Antsirabe	190 km	6 h
6	Antsirabe	-	-
7	Antsirabe to Ranomafana	245 km	7 h
8	Ranomafana: forest, night walk	-	-
9	Ranomafana to Andringitra, via Ambalavao	170 km	7 h
10 and 11	Andringitra and Tsaranoro: hiking	-	-
12	Andringitra to Isalo	220 km	5 h
13 and 14	Isalo: canyons and natural pools	-	-
15	Isalo to Toliara	225 km	6 h
16 to 18	Toliara coast: Ifaty or Saint-Augustin	-	-
19	Flight from Toliara to Antananarivo	-	-
20	Spare day in Antananarivo	-	-
21	Departure	-	-

Andasibe, Antsirabe and Ranomafana

Andasibe comes first, because the forest is close to the capital. The two road days to Andasibe and back avoid the 300 km, 9-hour stage between Andasibe and Antsirabe that Road Trip Africa also publishes. It takes longer overall, but each day stays reasonable.

Antsirabe is a highland town. Road Trip Africa suggests a pousse-pousse (rickshaw) ride there or a hike to Lake Tritriva. Ranomafana lies off the RN7. The road leaves the highway at Alakamisy to reach the park.

Andringitra, Isalo and the coast

After Ranomafana, the road goes back through Fianarantsoa, then Ambalavao, before Andringitra. Days 10 and 11 are for walking. If you don't hike, replace them with a night in Ambalavao and an earlier arrival at Isalo.

Isalo deserves two full days. The French foreign ministry advises against hiking in its canyons during the rainy season, especially in the afternoon, because of sudden and potentially deadly flash floods. Between Isalo and Toliara, the stage covers 225 km and about 6 hours of driving.

On the coast, Ifaty lies north of Toliara and Saint-Augustin to the south. From Saint-Augustin, Road Trip Africa counts about 1 h 30 of dirt track before you rejoin the RN7.

Road Trip Africa says Madagascar Airlines runs daily flights between Toliara and Antananarivo. The agency then keeps a spare day in Antananarivo, because delays are frequent. Keep that day before your international flight.

Itinerary 2: the west, the Tsingy and Nosy Be

This second Madagascar itinerary for 3 weeks targets the landscapes of the west. It involves more dirt tracks and depends on the dry season. It keeps Andasibe and Antsirabe at the start, then swings toward Morondava.

Days	Stage	Distance	Driving time
1 to 4	Antananarivo, Andasibe, back to Ivato	165 km x 2	5 h x 2
5 and 6	Ivato to Antsirabe, then sightseeing	190 km	6 h
7	Antsirabe to Miandrivazo	about 220 km	about 6 h
8	Miandrivazo to Morondava	about 265 km	about 5 h
9	Morondava to Bekopaka (Tsingy)	-	7 to 8 h by 4x4
10 and 11	Grands Tsingy, then Petits Tsingy	-	-
12	Bekopaka to Morondava	-	7 to 8 h by 4x4
13	Morondava: Avenue of the Baobabs	-	-
14	Back to Antananarivo	-	-
15	Flight from Antananarivo to Nosy Be	-	-
16 to 19	Nosy Be	-	-
20	Flight from Nosy Be to Antananarivo	-	-
21	Departure	-	-

From the capital to Morondava

Road Trip Africa estimates the drive from Antsirabe to Morondava at about 11 hours without stops. Break it up in Miandrivazo, on the Tsiribihina River. A traveler writing on the Nomadic Backpacker blog took 11 h 30 by bush taxi for the 484 km from Antsirabe to Morondava, in one go.

The Tsingy de Bemaraha

The track from Morondava to Bekopaka requires a 4x4. During the rains, access becomes very difficult, even impossible. Plan at least two full days on site: one for the Grands Tsingy, one for the Petits Tsingy and the Manambolo gorges.

You visit the Grands Tsingy in a climbing harness, with climbing sections and suspension bridges. You need to be in good shape and have no fear of heights. The Petits Tsingy are more accessible.

The way back and Nosy Be

The Avenue of the Baobabs lies near Morondava. Save it for day 13, at sunrise or sunset.

To get back, check whether there is a flight from Morondava to Antananarivo on your dates. If not, drive back via Miandrivazo and Antsirabe, over three days. In that case, shorten your stay on Nosy Be. In June 2024, L'Express de Madagascar listed Nosy Be among the destinations served six or seven days a week.

Car with a driver or bush taxi?

The French foreign ministry recommends flying or renting a car with a driver. It also advises not traveling alone in the vehicle and not leaving the main routes. We also advise short-term visitors against driving without a driver.

Option	Price found	What to know
Car with a driver	60 to 120 euros per day (Fairmoove)	The price goes up for a 4x4, essential on dirt tracks
Bush taxi from Toliara to Antananarivo	70,000 ariary, 100,000 ariary in high season (January 2025)	Leaves when the vehicle is full
Bush taxi from Antsirabe to Morondava	45,000 ariary with Soatrans (2025)	11 h 30 on the road for one traveler

The bush taxi

The taxi-brousse, or bush taxi, is the cheapest way to get around. It is also the least predictable. Vehicles leave when they are full, often one to two hours after the announced time. Breakdowns are frequent.

France Diplomatie reports attacks by armed gangs on the main roads, especially in the southern quarter of the island, and advises against driving at night. For long trips, it is worth paying more for first class. These shuttles run from Antananarivo to Fianarantsoa, Morondava or Toamasina, among others. For a first trip, stick to the most cautious advice instead: a car with a driver or a flight, and never a road trip at night.

The car with a driver

The agency Fairmoove quotes 60 to 120 euros per day for a car with a driver. Its prices are converted at a September 2025 exchange rate. Ask for a quote that states whether fuel, meals and the driver's nights are included.

On the paved RN7, a sedan can be enough. For Bekopaka, you need a 4x4. The French foreign ministry considers one essential outside towns.

Domestic flights

Tsaradia was launched in July 2018 to take over Air Madagascar's domestic network, according to Air Journal. Both airlines then gave way to Madagascar Airlines, which obtained its license in April 2023. You will still see the Tsaradia name on some tickets and forums.

The network relies on few planes. In October 2025, L'Express de Madagascar reported that Madagascar Airlines was running its domestic network with five aircraft. In June 2024, the same newspaper reported passengers' anger after delays of more than an hour.

Schedules can also change at the last minute. Check your flight the day before.

National parks: fees and guides

The parks are run by Madagascar National Parks (MNP). Their fees are being overhauled. In August 2025, L'Express de Madagascar announced 130,000 ariary for a foreign visitor at Isalo and Ankarana, double the old price.

In May 2026, the same newspaper announced that entrance fees at all MNP parks would double from November 1. Before that increase, a foreigner paid 45,000 ariary at Ankarafantsika. Check the fee at the entrance of each park and carry ariary in cash.

A guide is not optional. According to France Diplomatie, hikes must be accompanied by a professional guide.

Safety on the road

According to the French foreign ministry, all of Madagascar is under heightened vigilance. It reports attacks on vehicles by organized gangs, “notably, but not exclusively, on the main roads in the southern quarter of the island” (our translation). The RN7 crosses this area. Stay alert on every route outside towns and never drive after dark.

The ministry asks travelers to avoid the Anosy region and Betroka, in the southeast. Neither of these itineraries goes there. It also points out that uninhabited areas, national parks and beaches included, lend themselves to attacks by armed gangs. On Nosy Be, the situation has improved, but it urges you to stay alert. Check your own government's travel advice as well. The other guidance is on our Madagascar page.

Health and entry requirements

Malaria is present all year round throughout the country, especially on the coasts, according to France Diplomatie. See your doctor about preventive treatment before you leave. Plague is present in the highlands, generally above 800 m, with small outbreaks mostly from September to April. Antsirabe and Fianarantsoa are in the highlands.

Hospitals are not up to European standards: serious cases are transferred to Réunion or France. Insurance that covers hospitalization and repatriation is essential. You will find the recommended vaccines on our health page.

Whether you need a visa depends on your nationality. If you need one, you can get it at the airport or from an embassy. For a stay of 15 to 60 days, it is not free: France Diplomatie gives 35 euros for 30 days at the airport. Your passport must be valid for six months after arrival. Check your case on our Madagascar entry requirements page, and apply one to two weeks before you leave. Other countries are on our entry requirements page.

If you travel in late June, the national holiday falls on June 26. The full calendar is on our festivals in Madagascar page.

Which Madagascar itinerary for 3 weeks should you choose?

Criterion	RN7 and Andasibe	West and Nosy Be
Road	Paved, with potholes	4x4 track to the Tsingy, two ferries
Season	Dry season, roughly April to November	Tsingy open from mid-April to mid-November
Getting back	Flight from Toliara to Antananarivo	Flight or three days of driving from Morondava
Best for	First trip, hikers	Landscape lovers, patient travelers

Choose the RN7 for a first trip. The road is paved, the stages are more even and you fly back from Toliara.

Choose the west if the Tsingy and the baobabs are your priority. In that case, go between May and October, accept long days on dirt tracks and keep a fallback plan in case a flight is canceled.

Avoid combining the two in 21 days. You would spend half the trip in the car.

Frequently asked questions

Can you do the RN7 and the Tsingy in 3 weeks?

It is possible on paper, but exhausting. The two itineraries only share the beginning, as far as Antsirabe. You would have to drive 5 to 8 hours almost every day, with no margin for a delay.

Should you book a driver before you leave?

Yes, especially during school vacations. An agency can also tell you whether the Tsingy track is open. Ask for a written quote that specifies fuel, meals and the driver's lodging.

Can you rent a car without a driver in Madagascar?

Yes, but it is best left to people who have already driven in the country. Rental companies ask for a credit card, not a debit card. The French foreign ministry, for its part, recommends a car with a driver.

How many days should you spend at Isalo?

Plan on two full days for the canyons and the natural pools. Walk in the morning, with a guide, and skip the canyons if there is a storm.